The charm and subtle beauty of the brocade depends upon color synchronization. The silk is boiled in soap water for a certain duration and then sent for dying.Д¬olor plays a vital part in weaving brocade. The task has to be done with great care as the fibers can weaken or get damaged. This has to be removed in order to bring out the sheen and softness and to enable penetration of the dye. When the yarn has been processed, it is bleached and 'degummed', as raw silk has a gum-like substance (sericin) in its composition. It is first twisted (called 'silk throwing') after which the threads undergo reeling and checking for uniformity and roundness.

Raw silk is specially treated for brocades. Mukta is a coarse and durable silk used for kimkhabs, as fine silk would not withstand heavy gold patterns. Tanduri is imported from Malda and other places in Bengal.Д«anaka is thinner and finer variety and is mostly used to weave soft fabrics such as turbans and handkerchiefs. There are several varieties of raw silk of which the chief ones used for brocades are Tanduri, Banaka and Mukta.

It facilitates lovely weaves, is durable, strong, fine and smooth. The most important material in brocade weaving is silk.

Brocades of pure silk or silk and cotton blends and zari brocades with gold and silver threads. Pali literature mentions the kaseyyaka (silk of Banaras) worth a hundred pieces of silver.Д«rocade weaving, especially with gold and silver, has been an age-old tradition in India. Even the Rig Veda refers to hiranyadrapi or a shining, gold-woven cloth the Mahabharata to manichera and Valmiki's Ramayana describes Ravana, the demon king, as donning a gold fabric. Indian fabrics enjoyed undisputed supremacy all over the world for over 2000 years. It is said that when Buddha attained Nirvana, his body was wrapped in Banaras fabric, which emitted rays of dazzling blue, red and yellow.

Brocade indian